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One (will fit both child and adult)
Circumfence: 20 inches, unstretched
Length: 17 inches
spacerHats shown were knitted using mystery yarn from stash. Any worsted-weight wool or wool/acrylic yarn that can be knitted to the gauge given, can be used. Approx. 350-400yd/320-366m will be needed, in a combination of colours. Use any colors you like, and vary the stripes as you please!Recommended needle size:
spacer 1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles
spacer 1 set US #7/4.5mm straight needles (optional)
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]spacer Safety pin or split ring marker
spacer Small stitch holder
spacer Black yarn or embroidery floss
spacer Small amount white felt
spacer White sewing thread
spacer Tapestry needle
spacer Sewing needles with both large and small eyes
18 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
1×1 Rib (Worked back and forth over an even number of sts):
All Rows: [K1, p1] to end.
Using desired color for fish lips, CO 90 sts onto double-point needles. Divide sts between needles and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Once first few rounds have been worked, place safety pin or split ring marker in work to indicate beginning of round.Work in stockinette st until work measures 1.5 inches. Break color used for lips and join desired color for head.
Mouth is shaped using short rows. It is not necessary to pick up wraps when working wrapped sts on subsequent rows; edge of mouth will be hidden by rolled edge of lip.
Row 1 [RS]: K27, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P9, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: K10, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P11, W&T.
Row 5 [RS]: K12, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P13, W&T.
Row 7 [RS]: K14, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P16, W&T.
Row 9 [RS]: K18, W&T.
Row 10 [WS]: P20, W&T.
Row 11 [RS]: K22, W&T.
Row 12 [WS]: P24, W&T.
Row 13 [RS]: K26, W&T.
Row 14 [WS]: P28, W&T.
Row 15 [RS]: K30, W&T.
Row 16 [WS]: P32, W&T.
Row 17 [RS]: K65, W&T.
Repeat Rows 2-16.
Next Row [RS]: K to end of round.
Continue as follows, changing colors as desired.
Work 4.75 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 1: [K8, k2tog] 9 times. 81 sts.
Work 2.5 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 2: [K7, k2tog] 9 times. 72 sts.
Work 1.5 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 3: [K6, k2tog] 9 times. 63 sts.
Work 1.5 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 4: [K5, k2tog] 9 times. 54 sts.
Work 0.75 inch in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 5: [K4, k2tog] 9 times. 45 sts.
Work 1.5 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 6: [K2tog] to last 3 sts, k3tog. 22 sts.
K 3 rounds.
Next Round: K17; place last 11 sts worked on small st holder. First half of tail will be worked back and forth over remaining 11 sts on needles (last 5 sts of current round and first 6 sts of next round). If desired, work tail using straight needles.
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, kfb] 5 times, k1. 16 sts.
Even-Numbered Rows 2-6 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: [K1, kfb] to end. 24 sts.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, kfb, [k3, kfb] 5 times, k2. 30 sts.
Rows 7-12: Work in stockinette st.
Row 13 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 28 sts.
Row 14 [WS]: P all sts.
Rows 15-20: Work as for Rows 13-14. 22 sts.
Row 21 [RS]: Work as for Row 13. BO remaining 20 sts.
Replace held sts on needle and rejoin yarn with RS facing. Work Rows 1-21 as for first half of tail.
Lay hat flat, so that longest parts of short-rowed fish mouth are at center, and shortest parts are at side folds. Mark a column of sts along center of hat; this will be top of fish. Beginning approx. 6 inches above lower edge of hat and working towards tail, pick up and k 15 sts in marked columns of sts, picking up 1 st for each row.
K 1 row.
Next Row: [Kfb] in each st to end. 30 sts.
Work 10 rows in 1×1 Rib. BO all sts knitwise.
Mark a column of sts at each side of hat, centered over shortest parts of short-rowed fish mouth. Beginning approx. 6 inches above lower edge of hat and working towards tail, pick up and k 10 sts in one marked columns of sts, picking up 1 st for each row.
K 1 row.
Next Row: [Kfb] in each st to end. 20 sts.
Continue as for Dorsal Fin.
Repeat for other marked column.
Mũ dâu tây vặn thừng
SIZE: preemie/newborn (3-6mos)
NOTE: The only difference between the sizes is that the larger size has K4-st columns separating the cable panels instead of K2-st columns shown here. You can make it increasingly larger by making those columns wider.
YARN (you can probably get 2 hats out of this)
1 ball Knit Picks Merino Style, in a berryish color
1 ball Knit Picks Merino Style, in a greenish color. I used Petal and Asparagus because that’s what I had on hand, but a darker red or raspberry color, and the darkest green, would look much nicer, I think.
US3 DPNs, 2 circulars, or 1 long circular for magic loop (your choice)
CO 72 (80) with berryish color. Join rnd, being careful not to twist stiches.
Edging (Note: you can use a size down to make this part snugger. It’s probably a good idea, but I did not.)
Rnd 1: *P3, K4, P2, K4, P3, K2(4), repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rnds 2-4: Repeat Rnd 1.
Rnd 5 and all others, except as noted (basic pattern): *P3, K10, P3, K2(4), repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 10 (cable): *P3, C10B, P3, K2(4), P3, C10F, P3, K2(4), repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 15 (1st seeds rnd): Repeat Rnd 5, but meanwhile, incorporate one green stitch every 4th st, starting with the 2nd stitch (i.e., 1 berry stitch to start, then 1 green stich, 3 berry stiches, 1 green stitch, 3 berry stitches… down the rnd). Carry green yarn loosely behind berry color so fabric doesn’t bunch, and loosely between rnds as well (there will be 3 berry rounds before the next green)
Rnd 19 (2nd seeds rnd): Repeat Rnd 5, but meanwhile incorporate one green stitch every 4th stitch (i.e., 3 berry st, 1 green st, 3 berry st, 1 green st…down the rnd).
Rnd 22 (3rd seeds rnd): Repeat Rnd 15.
Rnd 25 (4th seeds rnd): Repeat Rnd 5, and meanwhile, starting with first stitch, knit every other stitch green.
Rnd 26 (cable): Repeat Rnd 10.
Rnd 27 (5th seeds rnd): Repeat Rnd 5, and meanwhile, starting with second stitch, knit every other stitch green.
Rnd 29 (6th seeds rnd): Repeat Rnd 25.
Rnd 30 (1st decrease rnd, first green rnd): Change to green yarn (don’t break berry–you’ll use it again, making flecks in the green like the green flecks in the berry). *P3, K2tog, K6, ssk, P3, K2(4), repeat from * to end of rnd–64(72)st
Rnd 31 (2nd decreas rnd): *P3, K2tog, K4, ssk, P3, K2(4), repeat from * to end of rnd–56(64) st.
Rnd 32 (3rd decrease rnd + 1st berry flecks rnd): While working decrease pattern, work colorwork pattern in the reverse of the first colorwork pattern. So, starting with 2nd st, and every 4th st thereafter, work one berry st every 4th st (i.e., 1 green st to start rnd, 1 berry st, 3 green st, 1 berry st, 3 green st… down the rnd). At the same time, work this decrease: *P3, K2tog, K2, ssk, P3, K2(4), repeat from * to end of rnd–48(56) st.
Rnd 33 (4th decrease): *P3, K2tog, ssk, P3, K2(4), repeat from * to end of rnd–40(48) st.
Rnd 34 (5th decrease): *K3tog, ssk, K3tog, K2(4), repeat from * to end–20(28) st.
Rnd 35 (6th decrese rnd + 2nd berry flecks rnd): Starting with green, alternate with berry every other stitch, and work the following decrease: *K3(2), K2tog, repeat from * to end.–16(21) st.
Rnd 36 (7th decrease): *K1, K2tog, repeat from * to end–8(14) st.
Rnd 37 (LARGER SIZE ONLY–8th decrease): *K2tog across rnd–7st.
Knit 9 rnds of stem.
Last rnd: *K2tog, repeat across rnd. Break yarn, use yarn needle to slip end through all live stitches, cinch, and weave in ends.
CO CAST ON
C10B Slip 5 st onto cable needle, move the cable-held stitches to the back of your work, K the next 5 st off your left needle, then K the 5 held st off the cable needle
C10F Slip 5 st onto cable needle, move the cable-held stitches to the front of your work, K the next 5 st off your left needle, then K the 5 held st off the cable needle
DPNs Double-pointed needles, a set of 4 or 5
K2tog Knit 2 st together as one
K3tog Knit 3 st together as one
ssk slip 2 st knitwise, then knit those stitches together as one